Several readers have asked me to create an “open forum” thread where gardening, green-living, and decorating questions can be posed. Well, here it is. If you have a question or a comment concerning one of your cherished garden plants, or about cut flowers, compost-making, green alternatives to chemical fertilizers, houseplants, etc., even current events, simply post-away in the comments section of this OPEN FORUM. I will check the comments frequently, and join in. And, feel free to invite your gardening friends into the forum. Shall we get started? Who wants to go first?
Hi Kevin! I have a question: why does the poor carnation get such a bad rap? My friend gave me a lovely bouquet of pink baby carnations and they seem to last forever. How can I get them to last even longer? Thanks!
Judy – that bad rap is the result of florists who thought it would be fun to dye carnations green for St. Patricks Day, neon-pink for Valentine's, etc. Frankly, I love carnations in their natural hues. So fragrant. You can extend their vase-life by at least another week if, each day, you cut the stems just a little, and completely refresh the water. Hope this helps!
Just wondering what kind of pruners you for pruning roses and other somewhat woody plants.
Oh, and thanks for having this open thread!
Justin – good to see you again. I use Felco pruners. They are expensive, but the best. They last “forever” and they stay sharp.
Hi Kevin
How do I keep a hanging basket of petunias fresh now that the first bloom is off?
Best, Jed
Hi, Jed: Food and water are daily necessities for outdoor container-plants, including petunias. I feed mine with a high-phosphorous formula. To prolong bloom and to keep the petunia attractive, deadhead spent flowers, including the seed-pod (see Petunia post from April.) Enjoy – and thanks for asking!
Hi Kevin,
thenks so very much for th elovely tour of your gardens on Saturday. they are an inspriation.
I have a question:
Would it be too much to plant a bed of alliums interdispersed with chives, which look like mini alliums?
The chives would fill on the low areas and camouflage the allium leaves that can dry out easily?
Despina and Michael
Hi, Kevin. Do you have any ideas for a perennial climbing plant that likes full sun?
Despina and Michael, welcome! I think your idea for planting chives among alliums is a terrific idea, especially if the bed is near your kitchen. You will have to keep your chives watered, however, because these too can dry out. I use hostas and hellebores to hide the withering alliums that reside in a bed near my back door.
gothamdan: Ah, where do I begin? If you like roses, I suggest either red 'Blaze,' white 'Iceberg' or pink 'Zephirine Droughin' (see post from a few days ago). Clematis is another possibility. If you want something a little more “macho,” hops (useful in beer-making)will thrive in full sun. Let me know what you decide upon, and thanks for asking!
Do the hops flower? Can you recommend a clematis with the smaller (not the giant ones), more vibrant flowers. I have another clematis at another place, and it grows back (en masse!!!) that is purple. How about morning glories?
Hi Kevin,
My father gave me a Taxodium Distichum, Cascade Falls. I planted it on a flat bed. He said I should move it in order to get the full cascading look. Can you move a very small tree that was planted a year ago? I do not want to harm it.
Despina
Gotham – Hops have lovely green flowers.
Small-flowered clematis: Those that I have seen tend to be pale, rather than vibrant, in color. Pink 'Inspiration' grows 4-6 ft.; creamy-white, scented 'Virginiana' 10-20 ft.; pure-white, scented 'Sweet Autumn,' (this one grows in my garden) 30 ft.
I did not mention Morning Glory vine in my earlier response, because you asked about perennials. But I do love MG, particularly the 'Heavenly Blue' variety. This one covers the fence in my herb garden from July through frost each year. I'll have to post a picture when it is in bloom.
Despina – I love, love, love Taxodium distichum! In fact, I want one for the lower stone wall in my Serpentine Garden.
You can, if you wish, leave your Taxodium exactly where it is, and stake it to get a beautiful cascading effect. But if you want to move it to a slope or stone wall, go ahead. Just do it before the weather turns horribly hot and humid. Once moved, be sure to pamper this glorious green cypress with an abundance of water.
My father though I planted it on too low a ground. He thinks it should be on a mound for the full cascading effect. I will keep you posted. It is sprouting all sorts of green throughout. It is very young.
Hi Kevin, this site is so inspirational. what a garden you have! We just bought a house and the back yard is so bare. Is it to late for me the start a garden this year? See you soon, Erin from Crazy Daisy
Erin – Welcome! Congratulations on your house and your backyard! It is absolutely NOT too late to start a garden. In fact, now is a good time to buy plants, because you can find them on sale.
I hope to see you here often.
Hi Kevin.
I left compost tea in a jar at your front door.
Carol
Hi, Carol – tea received, and thank you!
Kevin, Really enjoyed meeting you on yesterday's tour. The name of the herb lady in CT is Adelma Simmons. Vivian
Vivian – it was delightful meeting and talking with you, as well. I hope that you will visit this site often, and comment frequently.
Hi Kevin-
I enjoyed talking with you and touring your amazing gardens last Saturday. I write the nature column for the Chatham Courier, and I'd like to feature your gardens in my July 9th column, if you are interested. If so, please contact me.
Thanks. John Cooley raven2504@earthlink.net & 392-4814
Hi Kevin -
I've been looking online for a source for the Rose: Rosa Tropicana. Jackson & Perkins no longer carry it. I understand that it was an extremely popular variety, so I don't know why it seems to have been discontinued. I believe I saw that the patent expired, but I don't know why this would have affected its availability. Do you have any suggestions? Is there a way that I can take a cutting from my mother's bush, and plant it? How does one do that? Thank you for your help.
m8kmida: Romence Gardens & Greenhouses in Grand Rapids lists the beautiful 'Tropicana' rose in their catalogue. You can call them toll-free at 888-907-5268. If they are out of this rose, ask them to order one for you. Let me know how you make out.
How do you get a winter garden?
Dear Anonymous: Well, the most satisfying winter garden of all is the one located in the house! Thus, you must choose a sunny, pleasant window in your home, and outfit it to accommodate a number of flowering and green-growing plants. I'll discuss exactly how to create such a window garden as autumn nears.
Kevin, you once mentioned your favorite bulb suppliers. I can't remember which post it was, however. Can you point me in the right direction?
Janie – you can find my fav bulb dealers in the late July post “What To Do In
August.” Thanks for asking!
Kevin,
Can you please tell if you have any problems with the black spot on your roses? This seems to be the only issue I have – and I can't win so far ( I refuse to spray).
I enjoyed your blog – thank you so much!
zoya
Zoya – welcome! Yes, my roses are subjected to every conceivable pest, disease and fungus. A thorough clean up in autumn helps. If you are willing to use chemicals around your roses, Bayer Advanced All-in-One Rose & Flower Care Concentrate will treat black-spot. No spraying involved, just mix with water and pour around roots.
Hope to “see” you again!
Dear Kevin, I've enjoyed and learned so much from all that you have written. Kindly consider a harvest topic like how to care for garlic, potato, and storage for squash and other long lasting winter vegetables.
Hi Kevin,
We had an amazing time having dinner in your secret, secret garden. It was magical and whet my appetite to create outdoor table settings.
what is a good twisty vine to wrap aound a lsrge votive cadle in the middle of the table?
despina and michael
Despina and Michael – my pleasure. A vine to wrap around a large votive? Definitely English Ivy.
Any ideas on how to remove small tree stumps(about 3 inches in diameter) & roots from a future flower garden–other than dynamite?
John
John – if you have the strength to bang it into the earth, a pick-axe will usually accomplish the small tree stump-removal job.
Otherwise, use dynamite.
Kevin,
Iris are one of my all time favorite flowers.
Which ones flower again in the fall and do you have a supplier to recommend?
Suscha
Suscha – I love irises too, and can never have enough of them. My favorite is 'Immortality,' which gives fragrant pleasure in both spring and fall. You can read all about this reblooming iris and others, too, by clicking the September, 2009 blog “Reblooming Irises Offer Twice The Fun.” My favorite source for rhyzomes is http://www.easytogrowbulbs.com.
Hi Kevin,
what is the pros and cons of vinca major vs vinca minor? have you had any experience growing asiatic jasmine as a groundcover? would you combine it with vinca minor?
the groundcover i plan on using under my flowering cherry trees will be pachysandra. in the shady area i thought of combining the jasmine and vinca minor.
Mary – Vinca major, although dazzling when covered with blue flowers in spring, is slower-growing and less effective at smothering weeds than its smaller-leaved relative, Vinca minor.
Also beautiful is asiatic jasmine, which I have only seen in southern gardens. It is a marvelous substitute for turf, providing people and pets do not trample it.
To avoid an uneven appearance, I would not combine asiatic jasmine with any other ground-covering material, including Vinca minor. While the effect might look grand early on, it is sure to resemble chaos, not serenity, in three year's time!
hi Kevin Will told me about your site it is very beautiful and informative thank you Dr robert abramson
Dr. Robert – Thank you! I hope you'll stop by often. There's always something to grow, cook, or decorate here!
Kevin: Is it too late to transplant Hosta and Siberian Iris's-Now that I have cut them down I have discovered how much I have and places I want to move them to. Do I need to wait until spring?
Great information on Violets. None of mine are in Bloom. Not enough sun.
Andi
Andi – hello! Hosta and Siberian Iris need at least 30 days to establish their roots before the first killing frost of autumn. Thus, if you've already had frost, it's best to wait until spring to move the plants. They will both recover quickly then.
Regarding your non-blooming violets, do you have room for one — just one! — fluorescent fixture?
Hi Kevin,
We met at Michael and Despina's Halloween party. I promised to send you my dessert recipe. I made the toffee gooey butter cake that you enjoyed. What's the best way to send it to you?
Richard Merton
Hi, Richard! Send it to kevin@agardenforthehouse.com
Hope to “see” you frequently around here!
Kevin, just a quick note to say how much I enjoy your articles on holiday decorations! More, please!!!
I'm about to buy paperwhites. Is it too late to force bulbs? I want them to bloom shortly before Christmas. And I'm gong away this weekend to visit my sister for her special birthday so I don't want them to bloom while I'm away and miss them. What do you suggest??
Judy – it's not too late to force paperwhites. If you plant them in pebbles and water today, and keep them warm, they might bloom in time for New Year's. For Christmas bloom, the bulbs should be planted in mid-November. Bulbs planted before January need 5 weeks to bloom.
What is the name of the company for the best flower bulbs? I forgot.
Anne – There are two mail-order bulb companies I like:
http://www.easytogrowbulbs.com, and http://www.oldhousegardens.com
Based on my own experience with them, these companies are completely reliable.
Kevin,
Was wondering if blue spruce can be pruned to control height. I have 12 trees in a raised berm that i would like to control if it will not effect the health of the tree. Thanks for any info.
Chris W
Christopher – welcome. If you are not removing an excessive amount of growth, a healthy blue spruce will not be harmed by top-pruning. However, the shape of the tree will be affected, when one or more lateral branches bend up to form the top, or “terminal” point.
Hello! I have a blog called A-Z Apartment Garden and would like to exchange links. Description: How to grow the plants you love in a small space. Posted Monday thru Friday: Best Houseplants, Better Gardens, Easy Houseplants, Frugal Gardens, and Houseplant News. At A-Z Apartment Garden I take a different approach to plants in the home, suggesting that our houseplants should not be taken for granted. I have already placed a link to your site in my sidebar. Please consider linking to my blog. Thank you.
http://a-z-apartment-garden.blogspot.com/
Nancy
Nancy – welcome, and what a wonderful site you have! I will be happy to link to you as soon as I set up a “favorite blogs” roll. This should happen in the near future…
Happy New Year to you!
Hi- I was told I could propogate kalanchoe from cuttings. I would like to pot the cuttings for gifts. Do you know how I might get them to bloom, and how long it takes? Is there any way to predict when they would be in bloom for gifting? I am enjoying your comments and replies. Thank you for your site. Lynn
Welcome, Lynn – This is the way to propagate kalanchoe: Take two-inch-long stem cuttings, remove the lower half-inch of leaves, and insert each stem into its own 3-inch pot of a porous soil. Keep the soil moist but not saturated for the first 2 weeks; thereafter, let soil dry before watering. Pinch out new growth to encourage branching.
You can schedule kalanchoe to bloom by giving it short days and long nights. As outlined in my November post “Kalanchoe Blooms On Demand”, I set mine in a dark closet from 8pm to 8am for at least three weeks before Christmas, because I want blooms then. Do have a look at that post, if you haven't already.
And, have fun with your project! I think handsome, well-grown houseplants make terrific gifts. Anyway, I like to receive them!
Thank you! I will certainly look up that post. I am so glad to have found you!
What is a formal Italian Rose garden?
Welcome, Anonymous – Correctly, my rose garden should be called formal Italian “style.” That is, the beds are laid out to mirror each other. Thanks for asking.
Hello Kevin. After a disasterous first year (last year) of trying to grow vegatables, I'm moving this year's garden. The spot in the backyard that has the best sun seems to have some Japanese beetle damage. I'm going to try raised planting beds. Will the layers of newspaper you recommend keep the beetles' larvae from attacking my vegatables? Thanks for your help.
Charlotte – welcome! The best way to deal with Japanese beetles is by applying, in August or September, an organic product called Milky Spore. Milky Spore takes 2-3 years to become effective, but then it lasts for 10 years. You apply it to the grassy areas on your property, for this is where the beetles lay their eggs.
Newspapers, although effective at controlling weeds, will do nothing to deter the dreaded JBs.
Hi Kevin – we're suffering from winter cabin fever and would like to start working on our outdoor vegetable garden early. We'd like to start cultivating vegetable seedlings indoors and then when the weather permits, transplanting them into our vegetable garden.
I hear that some vegetables work great as indoor seedlings and transplant to the outdoor garden well, while others don't. Can you tell me which vegetables we can start growing indoors and would transplant well? and which ones we should avoid?
Thanks!
Frank – which hardiness-zone are you in?
I'm in Zone 6.
Frank – In your zone, the only things I would plant right now would be peas, spinach, radicchio, broccoli, onions and shallots. These, if sown in sterile potting mix, and placed in a cool but very sunny window (or better, under lights) should transplant well after you harden them off in late March/early April.
You can also WINTER-SOW the above and tomatoes, too, in late-March; winter-sown seeds, of course, need no hardening off. For winter-sowing instructions, see Jan. 11 and 25 posts.
I hope this has been helpful to you; let me know if you have further questions.
p.s. – In winter, simply shopping for seeds can do wonders to mitigate cabin fever!
Hi Kevin, A friend of mine recently went to Alaska and bought me back a big bag of Alaskan wildflower seeds. There is no mention of the names of the plants that are inclued. So any suggestions? I was going to sow them indoors in late March. Thanks kevin!!
Erin, how exciting!
Wild flowers are best started outdoors, not in. Why not winter-sow them? Or, prepare a bed as soon as the ground can be worked, and just scatter the seeds there.
Thanks Kevin, I will winter sow them so I don't mistake them as weeds when they come up in the spring. I've done that one too many times. I will let you know what sprouted when they come up!
Thanks Again!!!
I keep hearing about planting after the “last frost”. What does the “last frost” actually mean and when is it considered the “last frost” in Columbia County?
Thanks, Frank
Frank – Last frost refers to the date in spring when temperatures are unlikely to dip low enough to damage tender plants. In Columbia County, the average last frost date is May 17.
So I was just outside raking and cleaning up the yard when I went over to check on my mini greenhouses and as I'm checking them over I realized one of them wasnt marked. As I started looking at the others I realized the ink had washed off of 3 of them! I know one was cosmos one was poppies but the third????? we'll have to wait and see. so the moral of the story, use a paint pen like you suggested! LOL
Erin – Could the other be hollyhocks? I think you mentioned planting them. Anyway, a paint-pen is definitely the way to go when labeling winter-sown containers. Even a sharpie won't suffice, because its ink fades in the sun.
Have any of your seeds begun to sprout?
I went out and relabled all of them with a paint pen. The ones I wrote on with a sharpe were ok. Most seedlings have begun to peak thru the soil. As for the mystery jug…. Not hollyhocks, I think it may be one of my morning glories….
Ah…you will recognize morning glories if, when the second set of leaves appears, they are heart-shaped.
I was given pottet tulips on 3/1 purchased from Hannafords. They were looking kind of sad so I cut the flowers and put them in water where they lived beautifully for 2 weeks. I still have the bulbs in the pot. Can I dig them up do something with them?
Charlotte – You can definitely save the bulbs. While it is OK to cut off the flowering stalks, you must not remove the green foliage. Set the bulbs in full sun, and provide food and water freely until foliage fades. Then let the soil dry out.
Next, set the bulbs someplace dark and cool for the remainder of spring and all of summer. In the fall, plant the bulbs outdoors or repot them for winter bloom.
My (long) post “Hardy Bulbs for Winter Windows” gives these instructions, too, but not until the final paragraph!
Hi Kevin:
Beautiful work! I am wondering how long it takes to get a full sized boxwood when they are started as cuttings. I did a trial of cuttings and they rooted well, but I hesitate to do it on a large scale without knowing the answer to this question, happy planting!
Deb
Welcome, Deb! My boxwood cuttings grew to the size of my nursery-bought stock in only 3 year's time. Of course, the older plants were kept small, too, through twice-yearly trimming.
If you are creating a hedge, or edging a bed with boxwood cuttings, just plant the clusters of stems rather close to each other. This will give you a respectable-looking hedge or edging in only 2 year's time.
Hi Kevin,
Here is an article from todays NYT you might be interested in. He seems very familiar to me.
http://cityroom.blogs.nytimes.com/2010/03/28/ask-about-growing-indoor-plants/
Scott – Thanks for the link. Good for him!
Greetings. I have t 6ft tall and 10inches across thick Amber (light to medium light shade of amber). I get 6am-11:00am sun shining through them. Never gets hots. I live in Vancouver, Washington. My idea is to place rows of shelves in these windows and grow some Herbs ( Rosemary, Thyme, Basil a couple others. Do you think they will florish & grow nicely?
Greetings..I previous left incomeplete post.My Amber I was referring to are tall windows 6ft by 10″. I have 2 same side of my home. The light is so bright when it shines through it. I wonder if flowering bulbs would thrive in this colored glass as well as the Herbs.
p.s.Great site Kevin.I've been enjoying what I've been reading here on this site. Learning.
Welcome, Ke'hley. The herbs you've described require direct, unfiltered sunlight in order to flourish. A better choice would be scented-leaved geraniums (pelargoniums), for these do well in bright light alone. Among the scented-leaveds, 'True Rose' and 'Lemon Crispum' are particularly useful as herbs.
For ever-blooming flowers, choose African violets, wax begonias and impatiens.
As for bulbs, any of the tender, tropical Narcissi will perform well in the filtered light your windows afford.
Kevin- Im going to try growing potatos this year. I bought 2 yukon gold and 2 kennebec “starters” (I guess you would call them.) My veggie garden includes 1 tomato plant, green beans, cucumbers and squash. How much room do potatos need? How should I plant them? Thanks!
Thank you, Erin — you just inspired the topic for the current post! Well, an updated version of my post from last spring, anyway!
Hi,
Apologies if this has been asked but I am very new to gardening and wondered what plants would be suitable for a shady part of the garden ?
I have the whole length of the left hand side that gets no sun at all and look terribly bare.
TIA
Julie
Oops forgot to say I am in the South of the UK. Not sure if that makes any difference or not.
Julie
Dear Kevin,
I pruned the spent blooms off my lilac bushes last October. Spring 09 I had the best bloom ever! This year, however, not so good. Did I do something wrong?
Welcome, Julie. Stay tuned…there will be a post on gardening in the shade very shortly. In the meantime, perhaps you can tell me a little more about the kind of shade you have:
For instance, does the area receive dappled light — the kind that peeks through the open branches of trees?
Suscha – I can think of three reasons for poor lilac-bloom.
1. Perhaps, when dead-heading your lilac, you also cut the two small buds at the base of the dried clusters. Those buds were this year's flowers.
2. It could also be that your yard is receiving more shade than in the past, due to an exuberant tree. Lilacs will only produce flowers where the sun strikes the shrub.
3. Lilacs will not flower well if the soil they are in becomes too acidic. They prefer sweet, or alkaline earth. If in doubt, have your soil tested. Also, you might spread, as I do, unleached wood ashes around the drip line of your shrub. Ashes (and also lime) are sweetening agents.
Thank you for replying Kevin.
Nope no dappled light through trees.
There is a garage about 12foot long and 8foot high which is causing the shade.
The soil here is also very much clay so very cloggyand wet where the shade is.
Julie – A stunning garden is possible even in very deep shade.
First, solve your soil problem. Amend the area with rich, well-draining compost. Or, construct a raised bed there.
Next, plant tall cinnamon ferns in the background, with smaller ferns like the graceful maidenhair before them.
To brighten the picture, tuck in plants with dazzling foliage. Here, coleus comes to mind, as does the silver Heuchera 'Snow Angel,' and the red-veined, yellow Heucherella 'Sun Spot.'
Finally, edge the planting with hostas. The white-marked 'Patriot' is as decorative as bloom in deep shade.
And do sign up for my newsletter, so you won't miss the soon-to-appear pictures of my woodland garden. Part of this garden is planted in quite deep shade.
Thank you so much Kevin for your help.
I think I already have but will go and make doubly sure LOL
Kevin,
I was very inspired by your beautiful gardens yesterday and am doubly so with your fabulous website! I look forward to following along, what a great resource! Beth
Welcome, Beth. Stop by often!
kEVIN: Would Montauk Daisies make a good hedge of flowers on the water (salt ) ? Do you have any suggestions for low flowering plants (about 1 to 2 or 3 feet high) for waterfront? (Annuals).
Hi Agsin Kevin, I meant to say perennials..love your websight….Lucille
Hi, Lucille – Montauk daisies are one possibility; but there are other flowering perennials that will tolerate a salty waterfront, too, providing you first amend the soil they are to grow in. A tall hedge of beach plum is useful too, as a screen.
Stay tuned…I'll do a post on “Seashore Perennials” very soon.
Dear Kevin, I have a Hydrangea bush that is not growing.I took a small section from a huge bush at my old house.It's been almost 9 years now and it's still no bigger than it was when i transplanted it.I've replanted it 3 times thinking maybe it was too deep.It's on the north side of my house so i don't think location is the problem.I really love this hydrangea and i don't want to give up on it.HELP!!!
Alice – welcome to A Garden for the House. And, congratulations — you are comment number 100!
Three things hydrangeas request to achieve perfection: full sunlight, rich, well-draining soil, and water in abundance. Their great hates are moisture-robbing trees and severe winter temperatures.
Thus, move your plant (yet again!) to sunnier, warmer quarters, preferably near a hose, and definitely away from trees.
To transplant, first dig a HUGE hole. Then refill with fertile soil, copious quantities of leaf mold, and a little 10-10-10 fertilizer (such as Osmocote). Make a basin around the plant as a reservoir for water. And plan to water deeply once each week, unless rainfall is sufficient.
I hope this has been helpful to you!
Kevin,
Thank you for sharing your garden with us yesterday. It was brilliant even in the rain. Question, where can I get that Viburnum 'Cayuga'?
Regards,
Tina
PS. I signed up for your newsletter.
Tina – Welcome. What an intrepid soul you are to have ventured out in yesterday's weather. Sign of a true gardener.
Here is one place that offers V. 'Cayuga':
http://www.daytonnursery.com/Catalog%202010.pdf
Hi Kevin,
I am new to your website which I find very interesting and educational. I have a 8ft long by 2ft wide planting bed at the foundation of the back of house. I would like to plant boxwood to form a hedge and I am wondering which boxwood would be best. I need a boxwood that does not grow to wide.
I was thinking dwarf english boxwood but maybe this is to small from a height perspective? The ideal height would be about 3 feet high, but do not want to wait years and years for it to get this high. Which boxwood would be best?
Andriana
Do potato plants have to be hilled in order to produce potatoes? This is my first year, I did not hill, and my potato plants are just now blooming. They are 1-2 feet tall with blooms just at the top of each plant. Thanks!
Andriana – welcome. I recommend 'Winter Gem' (the variety that I grow), 'Green Mountain,' or 'Green Velvet' boxwood. All these eventually grow to about 2 feet wide. Height can be controlled with trimming.
Thanks for reading — stay in touch!
Chrys Meatyard – Potato plants do NOT have to be hilled in order to produce potatoes. Hilling merely increases the harvest, by providing more “underground” room for tubers to form.
Thanks for asking, and enjoy your harvest! There's nothing like home-grown potatoes!
Good Morning Kevin, This year I tried something new, I planted canna lilies and elepahant ear bulbs in container pots this year. I love them! the question is, are they annuals? do I remove the bulb and bring it in over the winter and replant next year? or just bring in the pots over the winter? Or am I going to be buying new bulbs in the spring? Thanks Kevin… and yeah finally rain!!!!
Erin – Great question. Here are two answers:
You can dig up canna rhizomes and elephant ear bulbs after frost kills their foliage. Let rhizome/bulb dry in the sun for a few days. Then store at 40-50 degree temps in a perforated bag of vermiculite.
To winter-over in pots, reduce watering when tops begin to die back in fall. Place pots in a cool (40-50 degrees)location, such as the basement. Provide water once a month (or less) during winter, in order to keep soil from completely drying out.
I've had success with both storage-methods; the real goal is to keep the bulbs from freezing during winter.
Thank you!!
Kevin,
I love walking out onto the deck and seeing everything in bloom. Thinking about the months ahead, I was wondering if there is anything I can plant now that will bring color into my yard in the winter months?
Thanks
Marlene
Marlene – yes, you can certainly plant now for winter color! Cotoneaster, Hicksii yew, American holly, Viburnum americanum (American Cranberry Bush)all feature bright berries in winter, as well as food for the birds. Birds, all by themselves, add winter color to the landscape!
Hamamelis mollis, the vernal Witch Hazel, is the first shrub to open its yellow flowers in late winter; the brilliant red stems of the Siberian Dogwood make an arresting silhouette against the snow.
Try any of the above, and your garden will be a thing of beauty all through the dark days of winter.
Dear Kevin,
What is the procedure for saving the geraniums so we can enjoy there beauty again next year?
Gina
Lockport,NY
Gina – welcome to A Garden for the House! I overwinter my own geraniums from year to year. It isn't hard to do, but you must perform a tiny amount of the surgery on the plant. Here are the directions: Overwintering Tender Herbs & Annuals.
See you soon again, I hope. And…be sure to sign up for my weekly newsletter…if you haven't already!
Hi Kevin:
Congratulation on putting together a great blog! I'm wondering if you would be interested in reviewing a new product that we are coming out with for 2011: a dual-batch tumbling composter? Please feel free to contact us at info@algreenproducts.com
Compost tumbler – thanks for your inquiry. I'll contact you directly.
Hello Kevin.. Happy New Year to you.
I was searching for information over the net about a rose called Zephirine drouhin and one of my searches lead straight to your blog.
Have you had any pest issues with these roses, like mildew and insects. I have heard/read conflicting stories about this rose.
Some gardeners say that they have grown them without problems, others say that they have had issues with mildew. What is your experience?
Vetsy – welcome. What zone are you in?
Here in my Hudson Valley zone 5-b garden, Zephirine is probably the ONLY rose which has tolerated the most adverse conditions — including insufferable heat and humidity. Neither mildew nor pests have bothered this rose. Even the Japanese beetles — which reign here from mid-July to mid-August — seldom visit the plant. I can not recommend the thorn-less, fragrant Zephirine enough.
Visit again, yes? And be sure to see what “cooking” on the home-page. Just scroll down and click “Home.” KLJ
Hello, Kevin–
Thank you for your gifted, inspiring offerings re happy plants, food, and homes . . . Hope you can help address a bulb disaster. Here in zone 4, our household was overtaken by chaos, and I failed to get a whole mess of daffs (& some crocus) in the ground. Now I'm despairing: is the only recourse to still try to force them to bloom this spring (using cellar fridge & bulkhead) & then lose the bulbs' growth forever after? Or can I keep bulbs in fridge (not planted) & then plant (in spring? fall?) and hope to recoup future bloomings? Or is it just plain too late? I'm afraid that I've doomed these bulbs, given that it's January already . . .
No Career in the Keukenhof – welcome! If the bulbs are still firm and healthy, there's no need to lose them. Proceed this way:
Pot your daffs and crocus in soil, and continue to chill them in your fridge or cellar. In mid-March bring them to full sunshine. Be sure to provide a little food with every watering. After they've bloomed (probably April, in this case), go ahead and plant them out in the open garden. They may not bloom next fall, but they surely will the following one.
Hi Kevin – we are your weekend neighbors in Kinderhook and lucky enough to have seen your garden twice on the Kinderhook garden walk last summer. Your boxwoods so inspired us that we started a boxwood hedge (similar proportions to your rose garden) on the path from our front door to the side walk. TRAGEDY – the last snow storm the little hedge to the left of the house was creamed by a snow blower. We diligently picked up the remains and have planted them in pots in our NYC apt in hopes we can extend the hedge this spring.
My question is – do you think the “creamed” boxwood will come back? Do you have any tips how to mark smaller plants when we get two feet of snow?
geolytle – Just reading your post made me shudder. I always suggest, in the November chores, to insert sturdy stakes with reflectors before the ground freezes. These do wonders to keep snow plows and snow blowers off lawns and beds.
As for your “creamed” plants, they might just surprise you by making a come-back this spring. That is, if they had ample time to set their roots deeply before frost.
In the meantime, I'd have a talk with your snow-blowing person. And I'd stick some red or orange flags among your young tribe — just weave the flags among the boxwood's branches, making sure they stand high enough above any predicted future snow.
Hope this helps…
Hi Kevin,
This is Claire, from Garden Design Magazine. Would love to email you directly, but I can't find any contact info. Can you contact me at claire.lui@bonniercorp.com?
Thanks so much!
Hello, I just stumbled upon your site and found it so informative and so easy to understand that I'll be a frequent visitor. I just read your article about growing paperwhites in water and gin. About how long from “planting” until bloom? Are the paper whites available at any time from mailorder firms? My daughter is getting married next June (of next year) and am looking for something to force for decorations and her bouquet. I've already decided on trying my hand at forcing tulips and Erlicheer. If I start them in February, will they be blooming by June 23rd?
Thank you
Anonymous – thank you for your kind words. How lovely paperwhites, Erlicheer and tulips would look at a wedding! I'm afraid you'll have a difficult time finding these bulbs in February; they are normally only available in autumn. Furthermore, bulbs chilled much past April do not bloom well.
For a June wedding, I'd go with African violets. These propagate easily from leaves. Start propagating in August or September, and you'll have mature, blooming plants in time for June. African violets make stunning centerpieces; I made these arrangements one year.
Do stay in touch…I'm happy to answer any questions that come up.
Thank you for your response. Your arrangement of the African Violets are beautiful and I will suggest them to my daughter. I do have another question regarding the Erlicheer. I am in zone 4b? (Some sites say 4, others 5). Since Erlicheer blooms later in the spring, I was wondering if the following process might work: purchase and plant Erlicheer bulbs in pots at normal time and place them in the ground in my raised garden beds. Allow them to flower, cut blooms but not leaves until brown, bring the pots in at the end of the season, allow to dry out, put pots in frig for a period of time, then plant them at a slightly delayed time so that they would bloom around June 20th. IF this might work, I would need to know when they should go into the frig and how long to keep them there, when to water, and how big of pots to use. If it would work, then I would just dig the pots out of the ground and put them in the urns along with other flowers for the wedding.
I don't blame you for wanting 'Erlicheer' at your daughter's wedding. It is truly the perfect flower for such an event, and what a pleasant change from the usual lilies, etc.
If you want to risk it, here's how I'd proceed: Purchase the bulbs in October, 2011. Pot 3-5 bulbs per 6 or 8-inch “azalea” pot. Place pot or pots in a refrigerator set to 40F, or in some other dark location which stays reliably cold but above freezing. Check the pots for water every two weeks. Keep the soil moist but not saturated.
Bring the pots to sunlight and COOL temperatures (55-65F is the absolute max) on May
20. You will probably have to turn the air-conditioning on. Too much heat and the buds will definitely blast.
I sincerely hope this scheme works out for you. Again, it's only what I would do were I determined to have 'Erlicheer' on June 20.
If only your daughter was getting in March. Then it would be very easy to feature this gorgeous, sweetly scented plant at the wedding!
I am willing to give it a try! We will definitely have a back up plan, but who, knows… it just may work. Since this is out of the norm, do you know of any retailers that will sell and ship bulbs so that I can plant them in October? Should I plant around the 20th of October, following the procedure you recommend for tulips as far as soaking the pots in water before putting them in the frig, and the type of potting medium? Once again, thank you for being so helpful. I enjoy your informative site.
Anonymous – you can plant the bulbs anytime in October, or even November. I plant mine following these instructions.
I normally order my bulbs (including 'Erlicheer') from http://www.easytogrowbulbs.com.
I'm glad you enjoy this sight. Feel free to “pick my brain” anytime you like.
Hello again! I last left a question about winter sowing perennials (thanks for the information, by the way), but now have one about calla lilies. I searched your site, but was unable to find any information about them – maybe because I'm still new to the site.
From what I have been able to find, they can be grown in pots outside, brought indoors at the end of fall before a hard frost, and left to dry out in a cool, dark place. I've also read that after anywhere from 8 to 16 weeks, slowly increase the amount of water until sprouts are seen. After that, keep soil damp, but not soggy and begin fertilizing – but not too much nitrogen or they won't flower. (Is this correct information?) However, I have read nothing about how long it should take from sprouting to rebloom. I am in zone 4b and had planned on ordering some to plant this spring to bring in this fall. I know it seems early to be worrying about spring of 2010, but…I am “anonymous”, whose daughter is getting married in June of 2012, and need to know if the calla lilies would possibly be blooming by then if I delayed watering until a certain date. If not, I won't bother ordering them. With such informational sites as yours, maybe I can finally lose the “accidental” part of the name!
Accidental Gardener – at last I know who “anonymous is”! Nice to meet you…again!
I love the idea of forcing calla lilies for a wedding. Unfortunately, I do not have any experience with them. This is something I intend to correct this autumn.
Thus I'd use the information you've gleaned from other sources and go from there. And, I think you shall soon become a very fine gardener!
We have a big problem with squirrels and chipmunks digging up bulbs. I swear they must have been looking when I planted out 90 daffodil bulbs in 2009 as I know a lot didn't show up last year. Have you ever made your own bulb basket/cage to protect the bulbs from being dug up by the critters? White Flower Farm is the only company that I have found that sells the bulb baskets, but they are a bit pricey,(#22.95 each) yet the thought of buying the hardware wire/chicken wire and making my own doesn't appeal to me. Those suet baskets that you hang with the suet for the birds, do you think they would work? I saw where my son had about 4 of them in his garage when I was trying to clean it for him this summer. The bulbs would fit inside and be buried the depth needed. I know not all bulbs would be safe in them from the critters. Would appreciate any suggestions.
Yes, squirrels LOVE to dig up bulbs…only to discover they really don't like them!
Kathleen over at Easy To Grow Bulbs (dot) com recommends sprinkling red pepper flakes on top of the planting area. This is probably the cheapest and easiest solution to deterring squirrels and chipmunks from rearranging your bulb beds!
I've searched your blog for information on composting with chicken manure, so forgive me if I missed information that you've already given. I'm planning to buy a composter that I can turn with a handle to place next to my chicken coop to dispose of the manure and the pine shavings I use in the coop and run…with grass clippings, kitchen scraps, leaves, etc. However, I've read that chicken manure takes too long to break down. What is your opinion? I know chicken manure is one of the best fertilizers, but I don't know how to use it. I appreciate your help. ~Andrea
adayinthegarden@comcast.net
Andrea – you are SO lucky to have chickens. I don't have any…yet.
Here's is a rule of thumb when fertilizing with poultry manure: Use only that which has composted for at least 6 months.
Thus, if you have an OLD pile of this goodly stuff somewhere on your property, you can use it now on your vegetable and flower beds. Otherwise, let it compost in a pile, in a wire-mesh bin (my favorite composter, and cheap, too) or in the composting “drum” you are intending to purchase. All composting methods require moisture and frequent turning.
OR…simply spread the manure/bedding on your vegetable beds in the fall. This way you won't have to bother turning it. By the following spring it should be good to go.
By the way…how many chickens do you have?
Thank you so much for the quick reply. Your last suggestion is what I have been doing…digging it in to my raised vegetable beds in the fall. My chickens are pets and keep me laughing. They are interesting to watch. I usually keep about 6 hens and they provide all the eggs I can use and plenty to give away. Many thanks, Andrea
Hi Kevin,
I'm a newbie to your delightful, informative and fun site. I'm glad to become a part of the “family”. Do you have any idea for inexpensive table favors for an early September wedding taking place at a ski resort in Vermont? ((NO, I refuse to think about snow) The mini-maple syrups and jams are cute, but getting old. Anything creative coming to mind? Thanks.
PAMdemonium – Welcome!
How early in September is the wedding? I only ask because a REALLY great table favor would be a few freesia bulbs for each guest. Even non-plant-minded people can grow this bulb indoors for fragrant February bloom. Not sure these bulbs are available so early in September, however. I can check if you'd like.
Another possibility is the autumn crocus bulb. Guests can plant this either outdoors or in as soon as they return home. The bulb will bloom about 3 weeks later.
Neither of these bulbs is expensive. You could wrap each in colored tissue paper tied with a pretty ribbon. Attached to the ribbon can be a picture of the bulb in bloom, along with the simple directions for growing it. Of course when the bulbs bloom, your guests will think of you and that special day in September!
If the bulb-idea doesn't appeal to you, and it very well may not, by all means let me know. I have another idea in mind, too.
Thanks so very much for the bulb ideas… and dressing them for success! The wedding is Labor Day weekend, so certain bulbs would certainly work. You mentioned you had another idea, I'm just curious to know what that might be, although this idea does appeal to me and it is a splendid one at that.
PAMdemonium – My other idea is to buy a few rose-scented geraniums (the best is Pelargonium graveolens), and propagate them in tiny 3 inch pots. You could paint the pots any color you like.
These incredibly useful geraniums propagate very easily — and quickly. If you buy the plants now and let them grow, by late July you can take all the cuttings you need and root them.
I'd set one pot at each place-setting at the reception, on top of a card which indicates the name of the plant, and how to use it. The leaves can be turned into a scented cocktail, a scented icing for cake, and even a fragrant bath. All these uses are described on this website.
Anyway, it's a thought! I happen to love the rose-scented geranium, and am currently writing about it for Garden Design Magazine.
Hi Kevin, You've certainly given me food for thought as well as a couple of unique ideas for the reception tables. I'll be using one of them for sure. Thanks for being so creative and taking the time to respond.
Kevin,
Great article and demonstration about Wintersowing in the snow but I didn't see any holes punched around the neck of the milk jugs for air circulation. You added a new twist to your jugs by adding more drainage holes..I've been using foil or duct tape all around the cutting edge of the jug..I see you only have a few pieces taping the two halves together. Doe that really hold it secure and keep critters out? Hey, it must work because you have beautiful gardens..interesting how everybody may find their own short cuts that works and may save time, speeds up the preparation process and saves supplies. Did you show making and putting a plant marker inside? I may have missed that part, but you have your jugs well marked on the outside.
Betty819 – Glad you liked the Winter-Sowing demonstration. I punched out ventilation holes in the necks of some of my milk-jugs, but not all of them.
As for taping: When I first started winter-sowing I would tape all along the cut edge. But this made the containers extremely difficult to open when spring arrived. Now I use only 2 small strips of duct tape to secure the hinged top. This method very well.
Kevin,
From time to time, you suggest using certain products, can you mention these by name or post a picture of certain products you found work for you.
I haven't seen any mention of any clematis in your gardens, but definately roses..Have I missed those?
Betty – I have only 2 clematis here, both very beautiful both located on the north wall of my potting shed. I simply haven't written about them yet! I'll talk about them this spring…I promise!
There are so many bulbs that I'd like to try to grow but they are such a hassle to dig up and store for the winter. Example: Dahlia bulbs will freeze and rot if left in the ground over the winter. I would imagine caladian bulbs and several other types would be the same way. How do you suggest you store these type of bulbs that have to be “winterized” Somewhere I saw in a gardening magazine that this one lady uses the tubs cat litter comes in and packs her bulbs down in vermiticulite or something. Wouldn't shredded newspaper serve the same purpose or peat moss? Newspaper always acts as an insulator. If they are stored in a garage where the winter temperatures hover below freezing. what other precautions can one take to make sure those stored bulbs don't freeze/rot? I have no place to store them inside the house.
Betty – I agree — summer bulbs can be a pain because you must dig them up in fall and then find suitable winter quarters for them. A tub of cat litter will work. Another option is an insulated ice-chest (the kind you might use for a picnic). Fill it with straw, shredded leaves, peat moss, vermiculite or sawdust — any material that is completely dry and fairly dense. Then tuck the bulbs inside, and replace the lid loosely.
What a great idea on how to store those summer bulbs..that's do-able. Those styrofoam chest are reasonably priced too. That opens up some opportunities for me of ideas of planting bulbs in my patio containers..Loved your post about how you layered your bulbs in that large container.
How do you weed your gardens? I don't want to use chemicals like Round-Up, but I have a huge area that I could spend the whole growing season weeding by hand or hoe and still not cover it, much less get any other gardening done. I'm sure you've already answered this, so please direct me to that post.
Many thanks,
Andrea
Andrea – Most of the weeding here is done by hand. New beds, such as those in my Woodland Garden, are covered first with cardboard and then with mulch. This system smothers the weeds. As for the brick walks in the Rose Garden, I spray undiluted vinegar between cracks in the bricks.
Can you describe your troublesome area – or send me a picture of it? I might have a solution for you.
Oh, my! I would be embarrassed to send you a picture of my weeds! You have helped with the vinegar suggestion. I use newspapers where I want to start new gardens but didn't think to do that between my perennials. Another question….. is there any way to get rid of lichen or whatever that moss-like stuff is that grows close to the ground and makes a tight mat that smothers anything growing in it's path? I've poured gallons and gallons of vinegar on it to no avail.
I appreciate you so much!
Andrea
Andrea – Here are three ways to deal with lichen.
Lichen and other mosses usually dry up and die with 24 hours if sprinkled with baking soda.
Alternatively, you can spray the lichen with a fungicide. Your garden center will offer an eco-friendly fungicide.
Because lichen thrives in shade and compacted soil, you might solve the problem this way: First, prune your perennials back to admit more sun. Next, pull up all the lichen by hand. Finally, using a garden claw, gently loosen the soil around your perennials.
A million thanks, Kevin. I wish I could reciprocate and help you as much as you have helped me. You wouldn't have a knitting question by any chance…..? Seriously, I am grateful for your knowledge and availability on this site.
Andrea
Hi, Kevin – great postings. Do you have a favorite fertilizer for houseplants as well as in the garden? Thanks.
Pepi – For flowering houseplants, as well as flowering container plants outdoors, I rely on Jack's Classic 12-36-14. Its high phosphorous content encourages spectacular bloom.
Houseplants grown for foliage only receive regular feeding with an “all purpose” food. Ferns and other woodland-type houseplants, which prefer acidic soil, are fed with Miracid.
I no longer scatter fertilizer on the outdoor beds. Instead, I amend the soil each fall with huge amounts of leaf mold. Leaf mold aids in water-retention, and keeps the soil both friable and fertile.
Thanks Kevin – I used leaf mold this past fall and can't wait to see how it works. I wasn't able to get all the garden areas finished before the snow fell and fell. I need to jump start my Hydrangeas. Any ideas?
Pepi Noble – what kind of hydrangea is it?
Hi,
I wanted to email you in regards in any possible advertising opportunities you may have with your website. I'm looking to earn support for a national cause and get visibility for the “plant 1 billion trees” project. Shoot me an email back and let me know if you would be interested at all in supporting this cause or if you want more information on it. I look forward to talking to you soon!
Nerissa
nerdbarry@gmail.com
Hi, Kevin – sorry I dropped out for a couple of days – working on technical issues. Hydrangea most important is Endless Summer – this is the beginning of the 3rd year. First year beautiful blooming, last year nothing so I'm hoping there is something I can do to get more growth and blooms. My other Hydrangeas are very old, grow very tall and have great leaves but don't bloom much. Thanks.
Hi, Kevin – I wanted to make the Lavender Cupcakes but the recipe is alluding me. Where should I look?
Pepi Noble – 'Endless Summer' has not received good reviews here in endless-winter zone 5. Late spring frosts, which often occur at night (and thus go unnoticed) kill off all the flower buds. I suspect this is the reason your plant hasn't bloomed well. When you bought the plant, it was probably covered with greenhouse-born flower buds, and that's why it bloomed well the first summer.
The same might be true for your older hydrangeas. However, if they used to bloom regularly, and then gradually stopped setting buds, perhaps maturing trees are now casting too much shade over the plants. Prune, if you can, the lower branches of your deciduous trees in order to permit more sunlight to reach your cherished older hydrangeas.
If you want infallible hydrangeas, go with the Pee Gees. Harsh winters, late spring frosts, and hard pruning do not bother them. Their genetic make up tells them to bloom in late summer — period. Honestly, you can't go wrong with Pee Gees. Unfortunately they only bloom in shades of white.
Pepi – here's the recipe for swoon-worthy Lavender-Iced Cupcakes. Ah…these are unbelievably delicious!
Thanks Kevin – we live in a forest of 27 trees, most decades old so pruning is not really an option. However, what is an option now that you've given me this info is to MOVE all the Hydrangeas out of the shade, I got my Endless Summer from a well-known grower who does not use greeenhouse-born bushes so maybe I will talk to him about this.
Also I found the Lavender Cupcake recipe. Love your newsletter and Tweets.
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Why don't my daffodils bloom? do i need to feed them something? I have plenty of leaves and leave the leaves rot after flowering…but very few daffodil flowers this year??
Peaches
Regarding wintersowing flower seeds in milkjugs:
Spring showed up on the calendar but it forgot to show up in person in our area! We've had maybe 3 or 4 Springlike days since Spring arrived. Rain and more rain! The potting mix in the milk jugs are still wet from the 2 inches we got the first of the week. While some seedlings are outgrowing their milk jugs and needed to be planted out, I did it knowing there was a risk. Lot of the sprouts are so spindley, the ones that are HOS seem to be the ones that are doing the best. Yesterday I decided to separate a few milk jugs that were had HOS and they fell apart in my hands when I turned them upside to get them out. I decided since they were so spindly to transplant into 4 in. nursery pots and give them more room and more time to grow. Have you experienced a really wet wintersowing season? What is the solution? I have limited space to place the wintersowing jugs. Even the perlite mixed in with the potting mix has turned green. Is that Algae from too much rain? Glad I kept some seeds out and I can attempt to direct sow them again. Until this week when we had two warm Sunny days, the daffs finally are in full bloom and so pretty. Think I will think outside the box this Fall and plant a different variety other then the stand more common daffs.
Betty – I have indeed experienced a horribly wet winter-sowing season! That's why I punch out so many drainage holes in my milk jugs. Don't worry about the green on the perlite — I have this too. I'm curious why some of your seedlings grew spindly. This has never happened to me.
One question for you: what does HOS stand for?
I've bumped my post on Transplanting Winter-Sown Perennials so that it appears on the home page. Scroll down, click “home” and you'll see it. Besides transplanting info, I describe how, exactly, to get the seedlings out of their milk-jug greenhouse all in one clump.
Can anyone tell me a source for the true old fashioned Thanksgiving Cactus. Anything I have
bought turns out to be Christmas cactus. I want one like mother had. Thanks
Jerri Houston
Jhouston1937@yahoo.com
Jerri – nice to meet you. Usually, the “Christmas” cactus (Schlumbergera bridgesii) is sold as the “Thanksgiving” one (Schlumbergera truncate). Your local, independent florist can obtain one for you. Click here, and you will see pictures of my Thanksgiving cacti, along with details for growing them.
Kevin,
Here's the senario: If you have ever rec'd flower seeds in a trade or at a seed swap and they are not marked as to what year the seeds are from, what test do you perform to make certain the seeds are still viable? A lady was just here that admired my columbines and I promised to save seeds from them for her. I knew I had some seeds that I'd rec'd at a recent seed swap that I had not got around to planting yet. I looked through my seed pks and found 3 or 4 pk. but one was marked 1997 but the others didn't have a date but I feel confident by the username that they were good. The ones marked 1997 didn't have a username on them. I read about floating them in water first and if they float to the top, they are not good and those that sink will still be viable. Then I guess there is the wetpaper towel test that I've read about. Maybe you can comment on this for me and others who are interested. Many thanks!
Betty – that is a great idea, and I will do a post on this topic. The paper towel trick is easy enough to do; more complicated is the testing of seeds which require cold stratification. These require a couple of freeze-thaw cycles to check germination.
Hi Kevin,
Can you tell me what the best way to care for tulips once they are past their prime and have lost their petals? We have a zillion of them in some beds that now look very sad. We would like them to bloom again next year but want to now plant some other flowers in those beds. We read that we should dig them up, stems and all, and place them in a trench, lay the bulbs and stems in the trench, cover with a few inches of soil and wait until the green plant part turns brown. Then after that, take the brown plant part off and put the bulbs in a bag and put in a dark, cool place. Sounds like a lot of work, but it would free up the beds for other flowers. What's your secret for your tulips?
Lisa
Hi, Lisa – Keep in mind that after a tulip blooms, it relies on its leaves for food. This food (acquired through photosynthesis) enables the bulb to make an embryo flower for next year's show. Consequently, if you transplant a tulip during this critical period, it will likely go into shock and abort its embryo-making mission.
The best plan is to keep the tulips where they are. Let the leaves naturally wither and fall off. Then you can safely move/store the bulbs.
If you MUST move the tulips (and I know how ugly the withering foliage looks), go ahead with the plan you mentioned. But there is a good chance — 50 percent or worse, I'd say — that your tulips will be foliage-only plants next spring.
Hi Kevin! My jade plant is growing heavily on one side making the whole plant droop. The 'branches' on that side are so long and heavy they're skimming the windowsill. Is it okay to trim the stalks and replant them inside the same pot?? I've had the plant almost twenty years!! Thanks!
Judy – I love jade! Regarding your question, go ahead and cut it back. If there is room in the pot, you can plant the cut pieces there.
Did the plant grow heavily on one side because that is where the light was concentrated? If so, be sure to give the pot a quarter-turn at the window each week.
Great answer, Kevin! Yes, the plant grew heavily on one side because it was facing the light. I must remember to turn it weekly! Thanks!!
Hi Kevin,
I was reading this post today (http://kalipso-busybee.blogspot.com/2011/05/chelsea-chop) and wondering if you've heard of this “Chelsea Chop”. I've got a tall coreopsis that needed staking last year. Should I try a Chelsea Chop this year instead?
BBI – This “Chelsea Chop” is a clever way to describe “pinching-” or “cutting-back.” The technique is excellent for rejuvenating plants, including old Lilacs. So go ahead and cut back your coreopsis, if you wish. Whether it will prolong flowering on this or any other perennial, I haven't a clue. I suspect it would not.
On the other hand, cutting back annuals early in the season will dramatically increase their sturdiness, and also the quantity of their blooms.
It's not that I'm hoping to prolong the flowering. I was just wondering if doing that would stop it from getting too tall and needing staking. I'm just afraid that if I do it now, it will mess up its flowering.
Hi Kevin
I have a question. Our son was killed in 2001 on a corner of two major highways in the UP. We have tried to do a rainbow garden (In the shape of rainbow) mostly of annuals where this happened. We would love this to be spectacular memorial. The first year 10 years ago people donated blue and purple petunia's marigold, red germanium's. We live 15 miles and could not water but it looked ok and people really liked it. This year we redone it with some red monarda, yellow primrose, red petunias, gold and yellow Marigolds and mulched it. It looks ok but we would love it to look spectacular for the fourth of July.. Do you have any ideas of annuals ? I just bought some walkers catmint was thinking of planting some there. This is almost a mile coming into the town of Munising. thanks for your time…
BBI – If you are worried about interrupting your coreopsis' flowering, but don't wish to have stems flopping all over the place, try placing a peony ring around the plant. The ring will hold the stems up, for an investment of about $2.50. You can use this ring year after year.
Otherwise, if your plant has not already started to bud, go ahead and give it a Chelsea Chop. It should respond by growing bushier, yet it should still bloom for you. But again — to be safe — avoid doing this if flower buds are already present.
snowflake — First, I'm so sorry you lost your son. Next, I think the rainbow garden is great idea. I have some ideas for colorful annuals. Just tell me which colors you are particularly interested in. Is this to be a red-white-blue 4th of July theme?
Thank you Kevin. We have tried to do the rainbow in rainbow colors. The rainbow garden is about 12 feet arch 6 feet in the middle. We even have a pot of gold spot. I tried to send a picture but it will not go. sigh…We have purple pink red and very small gold and yellow marigold planted last week. I will try and send a picture to your email if you would like to see it….thanks so much for your thoughtfulness….love your site and your gardens…
Susa – Thanks for the picture. I like what you have selected for your rainbow garden, and I imagine the petunias will be spectacular when they have filled out.
Here's another idea for a rainbow effect, involving plants which take minimal water. I've listed them in their placement starting with the foreground, and working back:
1. Edging: White, Sweet Alyssum
2. Begonia semperflorens (wax begonia)'Pink Pearl'
3. Gomphrena 'Gnome Purple'
4. Celosia 'Amish Cockscomb' (red)
5. Salvia 'Victoria Blue' (as background)
All these are arranged by height, from the low-growing alyssum to the tall salvia.
Maybe you can consider this for next year's planting? Or, just add the tall blue salvia as background to the planting you currently have.
thank you so much Kevin.. going to go plant looking today. Will add to the group. I love the idea of the white sweet alyssum in front. I think blue salvia was in our local greenhouse My husband built me a small greenhouse so next year I will start the plants. Thanks again and God Bless You…..
Hi Kevin,
I sent you a question regarding companion plants for astilbe – but I have no idea where to look for your response?! I'm not very great at posting…..can u email a reply?
cathie@hvc.rr.com. thanks
Cathie – To my eyes, Astilbe always looks best when associated with other woodland plants.
Here, an astilbe-collection positively shimmers in a bed which includes the following: a variety of ferns (New York, Maiden Hair, Royalty, Christmas and Ghost); brunnera 'Jack Frost,' and red-tinged heuchera.
A bed of astilbe and ghost ferns alone would make a dramatic picture. If you wish to add groundcover beneath the plants, choose either lamium or sweet woodruff.
Let me know if you have other questions — I'm always glad to help when I can!
Hi Kevin,
Any chance you'll do a comprehensive post on delphiniums? I've never had much success with them and I love them, especially the classic blue ones.
BBI – Great idea. Like you, I adore blue delphs. Although they loathe the high heat and humidity of the Hudson Valley, I've had success with them in the past. I did not grow any this summer. However, I plan to start a crop next month. When these bloom next spring, I shall indeed take your advice, and do a comprehensive post on them!
Hi, Kevin,
I do the blog for New England Cheesemaking Supply Co. Would you please contact me at jeri1000@gmail.com?
Thanks,
Jeri
Next spring?! I can't wait that long lol. Are they biennials, perennials? I have one lonely one blooming right now and I don't know whether to expect it back next year. Definitely going to try and winter sow some of its seeds. It's a little cooler up my way so I'm hoping…
BBI – Delphs are short-lived perennials, meaning you can get 2 (and SOMETIMES 3) years out of them. Consequently, if your plant is already 2 years old, better plan on seeding more.
Besides seeding, you can also propagate delph from stem cuttings. Select new growth, remove lower leaves and insert the exposed stems into good soil (or potting mix). These, if placed in the shade, and the soil is kept moist, will form roots in about 4 weeks.
Hope that's helpful…more to come.
Ooh, thank you for clearing that up!
nice work. Thanks for the post
My tomato and pepper plants are not growing well, have yellow leaves on the bottom, and the peppers are not flowering – any suggestions?
Elva – nice to meet you. From my experience, it is not unusual for the lower leaves of a tomato plant to turn yellow, especially if water is splashing on them. A good policy is to mulch the plants with shredded leaves of chopped straw, and then provide water at their roots, via a soaker hose.
I wrote about non-flowering peppers recently. Here's how you can coax them to bloom.
As for poor growth, this can be the result of several factors. Is it possible your plants were pot-bound when you bought them? Please give me more information.
Hi Kevin —
I would love to know where you purchased your white currants: Ribes 'Blanca'. I've searched the internet with little success. Thank you!
Jen in Vermont – Thanks for writing. I bought 'Blanca' from Micosta Enterprises in Hudson, NY. Micosta specializes in berries of all kinds. You can reach them a (518) 822-9708. Steven McKay is the owner.
Thank you for this beautiful and informative web site!
I have not seen any insect damage in any of your veggie garden photos. What do you do to manage insect pests?
Marion – nice to meet you.
Actually, my garden is not free of insects. But since I have stopped all use of pesticides, the garden has become somewhat ecologically balanced. Now beneficial insects are eating harmful ones. Also, I'm a big believer in companion planting for pest-control.
Kevin,
Seems to me our watermelons and cantaloupes are not very sweet. Is there something I can do to change that?
The Japanese Redneck – Too much water as the plants near maturity can lead to fruit which lacks sweetness. Consequently, withhold water just before harvest-time.
Hi Kevin!
I need a really good banana cream pie recipe. All I'm finding online are recipes with instant pudding! I don't want that. I want the real deal.
Brigid – I love Banana Cream Pie. But I'm with you — instant pudding is horrid. Will see what I can find.
I could have sworn I posted this earlier but I guess Mercury retrograde took care of that! Kevin, I am looking for a banana cream pie recipe. All I find online are recipes with pudding and I want the real thing.
Sorry Kevin, I posted twice. Brigid
Found one in my old Betty Crocker cookbook. Here goes: 9-inch baked pie shell
2/3 cup sugar; 1/4 cup cornstarch; 1/2 t. salt; 3 cups milk; 4 egg yolks, slightly beaten; 2 T. butter, softened; 1 T plus 1 t vanilla.
Mix sugar, cornstarch & salt in 1 1/2 qt saucepan. Stir in milk gradually. Cook over med. heat, stirring constantly, until mixture thickens & boils. Boil & stir one minute. Stir at least half of the hot mixture into egg yolks. Blend into hot mixture in saucepan. Boil & stir one minute. Remove from heat, stir in vanilla & butter.
Press plastic wrap over sauce, and let cool to room temperature. Slice 2 large bananas into pre-baked pie shell; pour filling over bananas. Regrigerate until serving time. Top with sliced bananas and whipped cream. Yum!!!
Thank you so much Kevin! I will let you know how the BCP comes out!
Can't find the answer to this anywhere. You're my last hope. I've dug up an old iris bed, divided them and want to replant in the same place. However, the bed was overgrown with violets and anemone, so I used Round Up on the remaining growth. I know…YUK, but was afraid vinegar would change the ph of the soil. How long must I wait to replant the rhizomes? Also, how long will the rhizomes be viable just waiting on my garden table? Thank you for being a wonderful resource for gardeners!
Annie – Household-type vinegar isn't strong enough to alter the pH of soil. Roundup, unfortunately, remains in the soil for a long, long, time. I would not replant your iris in that bed for another year.
Otherwise, iris rhizomes are very sturdy. If they were dormant when you dug them (meaning the foliage had already withered), you can count on blooms for next spring.
Place the rhizomes on your table into a box of peat moss or dry potting soil for now. And then plant them out in October. Again, plant them in a different location. Their roots can easily absorb the Roundup you applied.
How do you keep pachysandra contained to a specific area, and not have it continually spreading? I enjoy my pachysandra where it is, but I would like to plant flowers in the area beside it. Is there any way to keep the pachysandra from spreading into unwanted areas?
Donna – Pachysandra is shallow-rooted; any type of “landscape-edging” material will keep it within bounds. You can buy edging made from plastic (ugly, but it works), aluminum (moderately-priced) or steel ($$$).
Hi Kevin!
It has been a while since we have spoken, but I am truly enjoying A Garden for the House!
Your article and terrific video have convinced me to grow potatoes this season. I am looking for a source of seed potatoes of a good blue variety, but cannot locate one for fall planting in my mild, San Diego climate. They only seem to be offered in the spring. Would you know a source I could contact?
Thanks so much!
Kathleen McCarthy
Hi, Kathleen! I suspect it would be difficult to find any commercial “seed” potatoes at this time of year. However, you can always buy a few blue potatoes at your local farmers' market. Cut these into pieces as directed in my tutorial, set them in a bright window until they begin to sprout, and then plant them out in your garden. Can't imagine why this wouldn't work.
-Great!
I'll give it a try!
Thanks!
Hello Kevin,
Thank you so much for all your great advice! I am a frequent visitor to your blog. I planted a container herb/vegetable garden this summer for the first time, and I have a lot of soil left (used and unused). Can I store the soil over the winter and reuse it next year? None of my plants had diseases or infestations, to my knowledge. If so, how should I store it? It is currently damp, so I'm worried that if I just stick it in a plastic bin in my garage that it will grow mold. Would the container need to be airtight or breathable?
Thanks so much!
Lily A.
Lily A. – Nice to meet you.
If you are referring to a soil-less peat/perlite potting mix, then yes, you can absolutely store it in a sealed bag, clean garbage bin, or clean, covered bucket over winter. I've never had mold form on my stored potting mixes.
The fertilizer which is usually added to such a mix will be depleted by now, but that's not a problem. Just add more food to the mix next year.
You can store the mix either moist or dry. If it's dry, you'll need to rehydrate it next year. And for this you'll need to use near-boiling water. Otherwise dry peat moss is difficult to re-wet.
Hi Kevin, I have a question for you. I have this vine that grows between my garage and fence, it seems to have originated in the neighbors yard but the original owners are long gone and no one knows what this vine is. It looks like a concord grape vine, but the “grapes” are very small. You can see pictures of it here: http://terrycorum.com/2011/08/tiny-grapes/
I would love to know what this is and if it is edible.
Terry – To me, it looks like the “Fox” grape, a wild-type which exhibits a musky taste/aroma. It's supposed to be marvelous for both juice and jelly.
When I had a garden apartment in Queens, NY, this grape grew in the abandoned yard next door. Apparently it will grow anywhere, and requires no attention whatsoever.
The Thelypteris Noveboracensis (NewYork fern) in the beds next to the house turned brown with the lack of rain and heat in July. I was too ignorant to realize how to care for them because we'd only just moved into the house from South Central Texas where it's ALWAYS hot and dry. So, my question is….now that they look terrible, would it be ok for me to prune them to the ground and just mulch? I've been trying to find info about this on the web, but failed. Any advice?
Anonymous – Good news for you: Your NY ferns have entered dormancy. Go ahead and cut them down. They will return next year.
Hello Kevin,
An hour or so ago I searched the internet for info on overwintering
a Thunbergia Grandiflora. I found a bit of info on your site but became immediately distracted by your lovely posts. An hour and a half later, I find myself filled with things to do this fall. Among them, poking holes in milk jugs for winter seed sowing, making some mozz, dividing hostas and reading Ruth Reichl's book, Comfort Me With Apples! I am definitely bookmarking your blog! Now back to my question.
This summer I bought a Thumbergia Gradiflora at a small, independent greenhouse. Living in Zone 5A, I had never seen this plant. I transplanted it into a larger pot and watched it grow on it's trellis to 5' It stopped blooming after a couple of weeks, perhaps because I did not fertilize it. I'd like to winter it over and haul it back in my garden next summer. Suggestions? When do I bring it in? How far do I cut it back? The best I can offer is a 60 degree guest room.
Thanks for the info and your wonderful website!
Claire
Claire Ann – nice to meet you. So glad you enjoy the content here.
In September, before nights get too cold, cut your Thumbergia back to six inches. Just make sure it has at least a few leaves at that level. Scrape off some of the top soil, and replace with fresh mixture.
To encourage indoor blooms, provide the long-night-short-day-treatment I mentioned in the post devoted to this fine plant. Or, just set it in your sunny but cool guestroom window (60 degrees is ideal). There it should bloom for you starting in December.
I've never had trouble overwintering Thumbergia. To me, its big, blue flowers are utterly irresistible!
P.S. Hope you will sign up for my weekly newsletter (if you haven't already).
Hi,
I'm interested in using my indoor space this winter to grow a mini-garden. I have a large, sunny kitchen window but nowhere to put pots. At least I thought so until I saw your great vine blog post and noticed the glass “planks” across your window forming shelves. Where can I get something like that?
Thank you!
Anonymous – check this post.
Hi Kevin- have you ever heard that planting garlic in the rose bed works well to keep the bugs and black spot away? I read it somewhere and my roses had nary a bug or black spot on them – they looked fabulous – what do I do this time of year for my roses to prepare for winter?- Seattle weather is turning cooler – the rains will come soon – thanks
lamberjam – garlic is amazing. Even rabbits here won't trespass a row of garlic in order to reach the salad greens. Garlic chives are good pest-deterrents, too.
In Seattle, roses do not require much in terms of winter protection. However, you should rake away the leaves which fall from the shrubs, lest any be infected with a fungus or disease. Do not attempt to prune your roses now; wait until February.
HELP! Kevin, is it possible to actually CLEAN a spray tank that ROUNDUP was used in? I can't believe that my father actually used it. My mother would NEVER have allowed it on the property while she was alive. Thanks, Mary
Mary – Based on reports I've read, it's best to label that spray tank “Roundup,” and consider it contaminated. Apparently it is impossible to remove every trace of the herbicide from the line and attachment of a pump.
Glad to hear your mother was anti-Roundup. Time to work on Dad?
Kevin, Unfortunately Dad passed away in February so the brothers and I are cleaning up everything prior to selling and heading back to the States from Canada. With all respect to pop he probably knuckled under to my step-mom grumbling about “nasty weeds everywhere”. Which is funny because the only way to get rid of the weeds (they WERE here first) would be overhead spraying ala Agent Orange over the Vietnam jungle.
Hi Kevin,
Just finished your informative 8/5/09 posting “How To Propagate Petunias, Wax Begonias & Impatiens for Winter Bloom Indoors.”
I have some petunias in the white round nursery containers (maybe 10″?) that I never had a chance to put in the ground. Can I bring them in and do anything to keep them flowering? I live in zone 6b in central NJ.
Last year I kept a wax begonia in the small container it came in, and it flowered beauthifully for me all winter. It now looks spindly. Should I take cuttings and start again? What about the original plant?
Do you know anything about an invasive weed called nutsedge? My landscaper says it comes in pots from the nurseries. He is going to use Dismiss on it next year because it has invaded my flower beds and has now seeped into the grass. Dismiss has very good reviews on line, because it kills the 'nut' (rhizome) which can be very deep in the ground, although he says it will take two years to kill everything.
Thanks so much for your informative site.
Rebecca – nice to meet you. You can absolutely keep your petunias flowering in winter. To avoid spindly growth, cut the plants back severely (to about 2-3 inches of growth). Placed under fluorescent lights, you can expect budding to occur in Dec.; in a sunny window budding may not occur until February.
Wax begonia is perhaps my favorite winter-flowering plant. I've outlined its easy winter culture in this post.
Hope to hear from you again.
Rebecca – forgot address your nutsedge question. This is not a weed I'm familiar with by name. Probably it grows in my “lawn” too — I don't have actual grass, just lots of clover and other weeds that get mowed. Anyway, I hope your eradication-program works for you!
Kevin thank you so much for your wonderful website! I am so inspired!
For Rebecca ~ I too am invaded by nutsedge. It's terrible! I'm trying to stay on top of it by pulling it up before the weed is two weeks old, because the 'nut' isn't yet developed at that time.
Kevin, in addition to planting garlic, I worked on freezing my herbs this weekend and have a few questions. Which method would you use to freeze tarragon? Also, 1/2 cup olive oil to 2 cups (or so) basil is a whole lot of olive oil. Did I misread your instructions? My husband was making chicken stock and used a bunch of the older basil that I didn't want to freeze. Unfortunately, there's still a lot of that basil in my garden. What are your thoughts about freezing the 'soup stock' quality herbs? Can I just put them in a ziplock bag, remove the air & freeze them?
Thanks again. I have learned so much from your website!
Kathleen – Thank you for the kind words.
Regarding basil, I wrote “1/2 cup (or so) olive oil.” It's fine to use less than 1/2 a cup. The goal here is to hold the leaves in an olive oil-suspension.
I have not tried to freeze end-of-the-season basil. But I imagine you could turn it into pesto cubes, too. (Probably best to indicate on the freezer bag that it contains “soup-quality” pesto!)
Tarragon will freeze perfectly well if you first pull off individual leaves (a boring job, I'll admit) and then flash freeze them on a baking sheet. This way the leaves won't stick together when they are placed in an air-tight container.
Have fun!
Hi Kevin.
As you know I will start soon to plant Boxwood green winter. I took ooff the grass and I dont like the dirt. So I have to buy mixed soil with compots. How many inches I have to buy to plant tiny plant boxwood grren mountain?
Thanks
Ervis – Dig a big hole for each tiny shrub. Set the shrub in the hole, then fill in with 1/2 – 2/3 good compost mixed with some of your native soil.
Boxwood will grow in poor soil; it just grows faster and better in good soil.
Kevin–Fall is upon us. Why don't you do a breadmaking post?
Anonymous – Funny you should mention bread. I'm thinking of making French baguettes this week.
Have you seen my other bread recipes?
My Favorite Whole Wheat Bread
Jim Lahey's No-Knead Bread
Hello Kevin–thanks for a whole season of great gardening and cooking advice! I winter-sowed parsley and it was the best performer out of perhaps 20 herb/vegetable/flower seeds. I tried everything…
Now, as frost is looming, I have a ton of parsley to deal with. Besides freezing and pesto, I'm hoping you have a creative way to use it. Thanks in advance!
Melinda – You can use parsley just as you would kale or spinach. Consider a P&P (potato and parsley) galette; or a parsley quiche. This last one you can freeze after baking.
Also – I recently discovered that parsley makes a FABULOUS substitute for traditional salad greens. My partner and I love it topped with blue cheese dressing and strips of red bell pepper. Absolutely delicious.
Hope these suggestions were helpful!
Kevin, I have raised veg garden beds and planted strawberries for the first time this year. They were good and plentiful but what do I do now to keep and protect them till next year.
Michael
Michael – My strawberries grow in a raised bed, too. In mid-December (or whenever the ground starts to freeze), I cover the plants with about 5 inches of shredded leaves. Straw is a good winter-cover, too.
If you live where winters are not too severe — say, zone 6 and up — your plants probably won't need any winter protection at all. Strawberries are extremely hardy.
Hi Kevin,
I just found your site via pinterest and it is full of great ideas and information. I was fascinated by the winter sowing idea and your use of milk jugs. What changes would you make to your instructions if you lived in the deep south(AL)? My daughter is getting married in May and I would love to provide fresh flowers for the wedding. Also, what are your ideas for flowers to plant? Thanks for your time and expertise!!
Andrea
Andrea – In which hardiness zone do you live? (If you’re not sure, visit my Homepage and you’ll see a link for this info. in the left-hand column.)
As for recommending flowers to you, I’ve winter-sown so many I wouldn’t know where to begin! Here is one list ; and you can find other ideas by clicking the “Gardening” category located up top.
I agree — it would be great to have flowers from your own garden for your daughter’s wedding. Maybe consider those flowers which normally bloom in your region during May. Then go ahead and sow the seeds at once.
Hi Kevin,
We are in zone 7B. Thanks for getting back to me so soon. I have enjoyed reading browsing your website. It is chock full of useful and easy to understand information. Now to figure out what normally blooms in May around here. Merry Christmas to you and yours.
Kevin,
I am in zone 6B outside of Philadelphia, Pa. and wondered if you have ever winter sown bulbs such as daffs or tulips, in the milk cartons or isnt there enough soil depth or time? Just started to winter sow and have scavaged my neighbors recycling containers for their milk gallons.
Thank you
beth
Beth – Welcome to the world of winter-sowing!
Regarding bulbs…just as you surmised, in a jug there isn’t enough soil available for the roots of tulips and daffodils. Also, Dutch bulbs prefer to make their roots in advance of freezing weather. Finally, if placed outdoors, a milk jug would not provide enough insulation to protect the bulbs from freezing to death.
But if you have bulbs to plant, and if your ground isn’t solidly-frozen yet, go ahead and plant them in the open garden. Set tulips and daffs at least 8 inches deep.
Otherwise, pot the bulbs. Set the pots in a location which remains reliably dark and cold, but above freezing. After 12 weeks have passed you can force them into bloom in a cool, sunny window.
I have 3 milkweed plants and need to know if I should prune them back before Spring. They have pods with cotton inside. This is my first time growing them. I love the colors of the blossoms and that butterflies are attracted to them.
Thank you, Melissa
Melissa – If your plants have lost all their leaves, go ahead and cut them back now. The rhizomes will push up new growth in spring.
Hi Kevin, I have a few questions for you. First of all, how did your amaranth for grain experiment go? Did the hurricane disrupt it? Also how did your Brussels sprouts do? I planted late and mine did not pop into sprouts, but hope yours did. Lastly, do you recommend any particular veg seed catalogs in particular? I have some favorites and wonder if I am missing any jewels
! Stay warm!!!
Cary – Well. The amaranth grew beautifully all summer. It even survived Hurricane Irene. I tried to harvest some of the heads in late September, by shaking the heads into a big dish-pan. But along with hundreds of seeds, out came hundreds of tiny spiders and other insects. Yuck! Consequently I decided to wait until the first hard frost (the professionals advise this), with the assumption that any spiders, etc., would be killed off. But such a frost did not occur here until early December. And by that time, most of the flowering heads had already released their seeds — onto the ground!
So amaranth was for me a grand experiment. I think, for the home-gardener, that if a decent harvest is to be achieved, the weather must cooperate. If we’d had a hard frost in October, probably all would have worked out. I’m not sure how California growers harvest the seeds without benefit of a hard frost — but maybe their plants aren’t visited by myriad insects.
As for seed sellers. There is a post floating around this site called “My Favorite Seed-Sellers…& Yours.” I’ll look for this old post and give it a bump-up. Hope you are staying warm…here were are basking in 10-degree heat. Quite a change from last week!
You had a site listed that tells about winter sowing annuals and vegetables, but when I tried to pull it up, I was told it was no longer available. These are what I would love to know how to winter sow. I learned so much from your perennial WS site. Thanks!
Maggie – My apologies. When this site migrated from google blogger to WordPress, almost all of the links got misplaced. Here’s the article you’re looking for: http://www.agardenforthehouse.com/2010/03/winter-sow-veggies-flowering-annuals-now/
tenului delicat la preturii fara concurenta!
what shall I do with the hyacinths after they have made our Xmas family gathering a scented meraviglia from the balcony where they stayed in the sun???? Shall I plant them in the ground, or let them dry and store for next winter? Thank you so much for inspiring me
mada – nice to meet you. If your hyacinths were forced in soil (not in vases of water), you can keep them for future flowering. Provide plenty of food, water, and sunlight until the foliage withers and falls off. Then let the soil dry out, and remove the bulbs. Store these in a dark, dry location (I set mine in a paper bag filled with dry peatmoss or vermiculite) until autumn, and then plant them outdoors.
Bulbs which have been forced for winter-bloom usually need a year to regain their strength. Then they will flower annually for you.
I keep forgetting to ask you when I see you (delicious food distracts me!) I have a rosemary plant that LOVED being on my deck…. when I brought it in- all seemed fine at first, now it’s dropping “needles” and not looking so great. Any suggestions?
Brenda – Indoors in winter, Rosemary requires 3 things: cool temperatures (a range of 45-55 is ideal), moderate humidity (40-50 percent), and water no oftener than every 10 days. Otherwise the plant will undergo a Victorian fainting-spell from which it may not recover.
Here is a resuscitation campaign which may or may not work for you: First, increase humidity by covering plant and pot with a clear plastic bag. Then set the plant in a very cool location, where it can still receive plentiful sunshine.
Poking around your website I’ve seen quite a few references to growing sweet peppers—and the challenges they present. I did not grow them myself for several years because I never seemed to get any peppers. Hot peppers are easy in comparison.
Here is my solution and now I have an abundant supply every year. (I live in zone 5a.)
Variety, variety, variety. I grow Lipstick, Apple and Carmen. These all reliably ripen to red in my garden.
I start my own seedlings indoors under flourescent lights in March or April depending on when I get to it. I use the larger 4-pak plastic seed starters or 4″ pots. They will germinate quickly (bottom heat helps) but grow very slowly. I fertilize them after about the second set of true leaves. I use weak Miracle-Gro about once a week. Keep the lights just above the tops of the seedlings. You don’t need gro-lights, just ordinary flourescents.
Harden them off or grow on in a cold frame until after the last frost and the soil has warmed up–then plant in the garden. I usually put them in about June 1.
I really don’t like the use of black plastic, but heat lovers like peppers need some help around here. So I plant them on black landscape fabric. This is water-permeable and re-usable. I’ve been using the same piece for about six years (it is getting pretty tattered).
This gives the heat boost they need to produce a good crop.
Other helpful tips:
I also usually put a metal cage around each plant for support. I use the small and medium ones sold for tomatoes. (That are too small for tomatoes!)
I grow them in raised beds where the soil has been amended with lots of compost every year and a winter mulch of straw or shredded leaves. I put them in staggered rows about 18″ apart.
I plant some marigolds in the same bed.
I water them if it’s dry.
I don’t overfertilize–nitrogen causes too much leafy growth and no pepper fruits.
At the end of summer or when frost threatens I pick all the fruits even the green ones. They will turn red on my kitchen table. I chop and freeze both green and red peppers–no blanching required. This year I sliced up all the leftover sweet and hot peppers (all colors from yellow, orange, green, red) and pickled them. We have been enjoying them on sandwiches and especially pizza.
Martha – Thanks for offering these tips. The black, water-permeable fabric is a great idea for increasing the heat which sweet peppers demand.
My own plants grew well last summer, but they were slow to flower. Then I gave them a dose of low-nitrogen, high-phosphorous food — the same food I give my African violets — and they blossomed beautifully.
I turned the fruit into Piperade — a blend of green and red peppers, onions and garlic. Marvelous on pizza, omelets, and…well, just about everything!
I love your threads about winter sowing. I’m more of a vegetable gardener then a flower gal. Any ideas on what veggies would be best started this way (vs. direct sow in the garden or buying plants from a nursery). I am in zone 5 too btw. Thanks.
Ellen – Thanks for writing. The great benefit to winter-sowing veggies is that you can plant, at your leisure, the varieties YOU want — instead of relying on the slim pickings of your local nursery. As a rule of thumb, I use this timetable:
Sow frost-hardy types (peas, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage, spinach, kale, Swiss chard and other lettuce greens) in January and February. These, after germination in spring, do not need protection on frosty nights.
Sow frost-tender types (tomatoes, eggplant, peppers, etc.) in late March. Be prepared to cover their containers with a blanket should frost occur after seeds germinate.
Keep in mind that winter-sowing is not an exact science. One year, I winter-sowed tomato seeds in January. These sprouted in April and even survived frosty nights without any protection at all — except that which the milk-jug container provided. So consider the above timetable as merely a guide.
am I in time to plant fresie, I live in north east Italy
your tips about forcing hyacinths made our Xmas family gathering a sweet scented one, thanks thanks, have a wonderful 2012
mada – So nice to hear that your hyacinths bloomed in time for Christmas!
Regarding freesia, I always plant mine in October. But who knows? Maybe it will bloom for you if you plant it now. The fabulous fragrance is worth the experiment!
Thank you so much for the entry “What to Winter sow when”.
I have been WS’ing for years, but I WS flowers and herbs. Now I am giving a workshop on WS’ing, and the folk want to know about vegies. so your comments were very helpful.
Re additional vegies – eg. pepper, cuke, squash,and more- any experience with these- with the best time to sow, and when they germinate?
I am in Zone 7 according to the NEW hardiness zone map, used to be in 6B.
thank you!
ellen – good luck with your WS workshop — I gave one on this very topic just last week.
Peppers, cukes and squash (both summer- and winter-types) germinate when the soil temperature reaches 75-85 degrees. Consequently, even in zone 7 I wouldn’t winter-sow these seeds before late March.
Of course the soil in a milk jug is going to warm up much faster than the soil in the open garden. So after the seeds germinate one must keep an eye on the forecast, and be prepared to cover the containers with a blanket on chilly nights. Otherwise, these heat-loving seedlings are easily killed by frost.
This is my first year to ws. I live in zone 7 & wonder when I can ws petunias, impatiens & coleus. The weather has been much warmer & the seed I’v sown have already sprouted, my lupines have leaves already. Thanks for all info you provide.
Hi Kevin:
Before we left Kinderhook for the city today we were walking the dogs and noticed that the garlic patch had sprouted – the plants are about 10 inches tall – what should we do? Any ideas? Has the same happened with your garlic?
I was SOOO looking forward to a summer of roasted garlic – I will be so disappointed if this false spring has ruined it!
Patti – You can plant petunias and impatiens now. I’d wait until March to sow coleus. And definitely hold back some of the seeds…just in case.
George Lytle – Garlic has a habit of sending up shoots in autumn, and then again during any warmish patch in winter. Mine have had green growth since October. This does not effect the summer harvest. Roasted garlic…YUM.