Last updated on December 2nd, 2011
Houseplants welcome the turn of the year and the lengthening hours of daylight. Grape ivy, philodendron and other vines grow faster now, ferns unfurl new fronds. Blooming plants, like the wax begonias, impatiens and geraniums pictured above (click to enlarge) bud more freely. I encourage their burgeoning beauty with increased water and food. The following plants are of special concern this month:
Amaryllis. Is the flower stalk appearing on your new plant? If so, move it gradually to light and sun and heat (not above 70 degrees) and provide water as needed. Examine your older stored amaryllis for signs of life. Then replace the old top soil with new, and begin watering. Keep cool and in dim light until the stalk is about three inches high.
Azalea. Place your gift plant away from full sunlight until the flowers have faded. Then give it a bright spot. Coolness (60 degrees or less) and much water, even twice daily, are other needs.
Broad-leaved Foliage Plants. When you recover from the holidays, give your rubber plants, dracaenas, etc., a big thrill. Go over all the leaf surfaces, above and below, with a soft cloth dipped in mild soap suds. Then rinse with a clean wet cloth. Their pores freed of dust, the plants will look and feel better.
Bulbs. If you have tulips, hyacinths, etc., in cold-storage, bring them in now to a cold light window.
Cyclamen. Assure 3 to 4 months of bloom by growing it cold (65 degrees and less if possible), and constantly moist. I maintain an inch or two of water in my cyclamen’s saucer at all times.
Forsythia. It’s not too early to force these branches. Cut sprays at varying lengths, mash the ends with a hammer, and submerge in a tub of cool water for several hours or overnight. Then arrange in a vase. Placed in a bright but cool window, a brilliant bouquet of sunshine-yellow will greet you in about 3 week’s time.
Geraniums. Move the big rested plants, which you potted from the garden and have been growing quite cold, to full sun and warmth, but not above 65 degrees if you can manage it. Water more freely now, and fertilize as you see the plants responding.
Petunias. Grown in full sun or beneath fluorescents, and provided with ample moisture (mine are watered daily) and high-phosphorous fertilizer, these will give you flowers and the accompanying sweet scent of summer even as snow blankets the world outside.
Poinsettia. To insure months of beauty, keep cool and just barely moist. Mine flourish in an east window that receives morning sun.
Primrose. Malacoides, obconica, etc., all require coolness and constant moisture. As with cyclamen, keep water in the saucer at all times.
Roses. Your miniatures will gladly bloom ahead of their June schedule if you place them now in a 65 degree location in full sun or beneath fluorescents. Shower tops weekly to deter red spider and other pests.
Questions about other plants and their January care? Post them below!
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Hardy Bulbs for Winter Windows
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Carol says
I really need to take cuttings of my wax begonias and impatiens in the fall, and also to overwinter my geraniums. What a pretty picture they make on your plant stand, Kevin.
Jason says
I always heard you had to wait until March to cut/force forsythia. Is this not true?
Kevin Lee Jacobs says
Jason – forsythia can be forced after it receives a mere 30 hours of below 40-degree weather. And those hours can be cumulative.
I'll write more on the forcing of forsythia in the days to come.
Sharon says
Kevin, my amaryllis is about to bloom. Should I feed it now — or later?
Kevin Lee Jacobs says
Sharon – wait until the final bloom has faded. Then feed your strappy-leaved houseplant just as you do your other potted plants. For the bulb is now and through summer developing its flowers for next winter's show.
Yolanda says
Help! I have several hyacinths rooting in vases of water in my cold basement. I just checked them, and discovered blue mold growing on the bulbs. Should I trash them? Will they still bloom? Is there something I can do to kill the mold? Thanks, Kevin!
Kevin Lee Jacobs says
Yolanda – mold is not uncommon when forcing bulbs in a too-damp environment. The mold won't interfer with the rooting of your hyacinths, nor their blooms, if it is limited to the top and sides of the bulbs. The only cause for worry is when mold develops underneath, where roots emerge. Have a close look at the bulbs, and report back if you can.
Randy J says
Kevin,
I look forward to seeing your Cyclamen and mini Roses. I haven't added those to my winter gardens yet.
I do have one Amaryllis that has 4 flower stalks coming up. Last year it had 3 stalks and I was hoping for 5 this year but I will be happy with the 4! I only grow “evergreen” varieties of Amaryllis. I am not good at the packing away for the summer and resuscitating process that is required for the large flowered Amaryllis, and I prefer the smaller flowers of the evergreen varieties. I have 5 of the cybister amaryllis and 2 of the Papillo. I did plant a trumpet flowered Amaryllis this year though and I think that would like a dormant period. I'll let you know how that pans out.
I am waiting for my Clivia to start sending up flower stalks. That is a real favourite of mine. The large clusters of bright orange flowers are great in the heart of winter!
Now I am off to pot up some cuttings of the Night Blooming Cereus.
Yolanda says
Kevin, the mold on my hyacinths is indeed only on the sides and top. Roots look fine, and even the water is clear. One more week and I'll bring them upstairs to the window! I really, really, need the fragrance now!
Kevin Lee Jacobs says
Randy – I'm familiar with the evergreen amaryllis 'Papillo,' but not the 'Cybister.' You'll have to send me photos!
You are so right about clivia — it's one of the great joys of winter.
Yolanda – That is indeed good news!